“Bee foraging on garden plants: Sussex University research” – a talk by Professor Francis Ratnieks

Yesterday evening I went to a talk on “Bee foraging on garden plants: Sussex University research” by Professor Francis Ratnieks at the Jodrell Lecture Theatre, Kew Gardens. Francis is the Professor of Apiculture (Evolution, Behaviour and Environment) at the University of Surrey – the only Professor of Apiculture we have in the UK!

Before the talk began, a student read some gardening themed poetry for us, which I enjoyed. The poems included ‘Tree at my Window’ by Robert Frost and ‘Come slowly – Eden!’ by Emily Dickinson. Prof. Ratnieks must be a fan of poetry too, as he began his talk by quoting a line by Rudyard Kipling:

There’s a whisper down the field where the year has shot her yield, And the ricks stand gray to the sun, Singing: — “Over then, come over, for the bee has quit the clover, And your English summer’s done.”

He then went on to discussing his research, which has covered many different topics to do with bee health and foraging behaviour over the years. He has done research to try and find out the main pollinators for commercial crops such as apples, pears and blueberries in the UK. One of his studies in East Kent found that 61% of insects visiting pear & apple flowers were honey bees, while a similar May 2012 study of blueberry flowers found 65% of insect visitors were honey bees. This was despite the blueberry farmer having put out hundreds of bought-in bumble bee colonies (Bombus Terrestius) amongst his crops. Pollination is big business now, with US beekeepers paid $175 per pollinating hive for the Californian almond crop.

Honey bees on apple flowers

Honey bees on apple flowers

It may surprise some readers to hear that he considers the two main threats to bees to be diseases and fewer flowers in the countryside/habitat loss/intensive farming – not pesticides, climate change, mobile phones or any of the sensational stories the media likes covering! This correlates with the views of Dr Stuart Roberts, whose talk on the decline of insect pollinators I blogged about last year.

Flower research

We are losing large patches of common flowers such as knapweed and ragwort. These flowers are not going to go extinct, but they are the bread-and-butter of honey bee foraging.

Quite often books suggest that people plant spring flowers, to get colonies going early in the year. Yet Professor Ratnieks has found that the average distance foraged by honey bee colonies he studied in March was 1/2 kilometre. In July, this increased to 2km. The reason for this? In spring, bees find it in easy to find flowers, whereas in summer they have to go further. Despite the warm weather of summer, in terms of planting available forage it is then that bees really need our help, more so than in winter. Don’t bother planting flowers for bees in January – they will only have about one day’s foraging time.

Ragwort - this pretty yellow flower gives the bees both nectar and bright yellow pollen.

Ragwort – this pretty yellow flower gives the bees both nectar and bright yellow pollen.

Ivy flowers in autumn.

Ivy flowers in autumn.

In autumn ivy comes along and acts as an incredibly important late source of forage, providing both nectar and pollen. Professor Ratnieks found that 91% of all pollen collected by his bees during mid-Sept to mid-Oct was ivy pollen. He told us he’d come to the conclusion that “If ivy wasn’t invented already then it probably should be”. And yet its unshowy flowers go unnoticed and unappreciated by many.

The best plants for bees

July and August (in the UK, anyway) is when bees need the most help, so if you want to encourage the animated soft hum of happy bees in your garden, give them summer flowering garden plants.

A study by a Phd student Professor Ratnieks supervised, comparing around 32 common garden plants, found that there was a 100-fold range in attractiveness to insects between the best and worst plants. The worst plant was a red pelagonia, which attracted nothing! The best plants were…

Lavender – especially good for bumble bees
Borage – especially good for honey bees and other insects too
Majoram – attracted a wide variety of insects

Now, you might ask: why do bumbles prefer lavender and honey bees borage? Professor Ratnieks believes that the delicate flowers of borage are more suited in size to little honey bees, rather than big, bouncy bumbles.

Bumble bee landing on borage

Bumble bee landing on borage – it happens occasionally!

As for lavender attracting bumbles more often, this is likely to be because bumbles are faster on the lavender flowers. Bumble bee species tend to have longer tongues than honey bees, which enables them to collect nectar from each lavender flower in a speedy 1.5 seconds. In comparison the shorter tongued honey bees must really stick their tongue out, and end up taking around 3.5 seconds per flower.

Each lavender flower contains a minute amount of nectar, so the extra couple of seconds makes a real difference in foraging efficiency.

Shortening some lavender flowers with cuts reduced the times honey bees spent visiting each flower, thus backing up the theory that it is their shorter tongue slowing them down. In a further experiment with lavender flowers, Professor Ratnieks devised a ‘High-Tech Whacking Stick’. This crucial piece of equipment was a stick wielded by his research students. They used it to selectively deter bees from visiting two different patches of lavender – in one patch bumbles were excluded, while in another honey bees were excluded. A third control patch with no bees excluded was also used.

What the students found was that when bumble bees were excluded, honey bee foragers quickly built up on the lavender. Whereas on the control patch where bumbles were not excluded, there were hardly any honey bees present. It appears to be the case that bumbles deter honey bees from visiting lavender by being quicker than them – there’s almost no point the honey bees trying.

‘Bowles’s Mauve’ wallflower – best for butterflies

A plant for butterfly fans. Butterflies are harder to attract than bees, mostly because there are fewer of them. A British butterfly won’t lay her eggs on a non-native plant, so bear this in mind.

Honey bee on borage. Courtesy The Food and Environment Research Agency (Fera), Crown Copyright.

Honey bee on borage. Courtesy The Food and Environment Research Agency (Fera), Crown Copyright.

Differences between urban and rural honey bee foraging

Oil seed rape is an important UK crop; it will soon be the 2nd biggest arable crop in England. Professor Ratnieks decided to study just how often foraging honey bees around Brighton visited oil seed rape, which is renowned for being attractive to bees. His results were surprising to me – in Brighton most foragers stayed in the city and ignored the oil seed rape fields within their foraging range, while on average the rural colonies surrounding Brighton visited the rape field for about 10-20% of their foraging. This was determined by both studying waggle dances and collecting pollen samples.

Professor Ratnieks had expected the figure for rural colonies visiting oil seed rape to be higher, as these were big fields. If colonies are not choosing to collect the majority of their nectar and pollen from oil-seed rape that is good news, as it will help them avoid the pesticides commonly used on rape crops.

As an aside, Professor Ratnieks commented that he feels the number of hives in central London now is “ridiculous”. Companies have been installing hives on their rooftop to increase their green credentials, without any understanding of the sustainability issues. In his view the whole of central London would need to be converted into fields of borage in order to properly support the hives currently there.

Lots of beekeepers say that towns are better for bees than countryside; he believes it is not so much that towns are good for bees as that the UK countryside is crap! We have turned our countryside into a desert of monocrops.

There is a video about the research available on YouTube, narrated by Professor Ratnieks – Quantifying variation among garden plants in attractiveness to bees and other insects. Thanks to @MerryBeeBo for letting me know about this in her comment on this post.

Oxalic acid research

Prof. Ratnieks noted that the UK National Bee Unit had not done any research comparing the efficiency of oxalic acid treatments by the different methods of vaporisation, spraying and drizzling. He realised that such research would be cheap to carry it out, so set about doing it himself.

The results surprised me – vaporisation was the most effective way of killing varroa using oxalic acid, and also resulted in no bee deaths. Spraying oxalic acid was the most toxic method, though only resulted in a couple of bees per day dying in the week after application. The advice I have seen given in BBKA News before has been that vaporisation  requires too much care in handling to be worth it (the fumes can be toxic to humans), but if it is significantly more effective perhaps our Association should be looking into doing it that way.

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What’s flowering now: mid February

Last week we had another brief flurry of snow, and it was back to huddling with my coat on in the office. But then this weekend brought sunshine, and it was wonderful to see the bees pinging back and forth into their hives, and even bringing back pollen!

Crocuses

Crocuses

Every year I like to photograph the purple crocuses that shoot up from the apiary floor. This year’s photo is blurrier than I’d like, but hopefully you can spot the traffic-colour orange that nestles within. Ted Hooper says of crocus: “excellent source of early pollen. Low on the ground, and therefore sheltered, it can be worked at low temperatures.” Look out for its cheery orange in the pollen baskets of your bees.

You can see these crocuses are partially open; the time of day was around 3pm and crocuses are usually fully open around midday. I was interested to read the following information in ‘Plants and Honey Bees: their relationships‘ by David Aston & Sally Bucknall (2004), p69: “Tulips and crocuses show thermonasty, a response to a general, non-directional temperature stimulus; the crocus is sensitive to as little as 0.5C change in temperature, and this change will determine the opening and closing of the flower.

Snowdrops

Snowdrops

The snowdrops also offer hope and a source of food to the bees. Ted Hooper sees these as “The real harbingers of spring, a patch naturalized in a lawn will delight the bees’ senses as well as your own.” Bees collect the nectar from grooves on the inner surface of the petals.

Some other plants which will be flowering now – hazel, willow, aconite. Emma discovered a sweet post by the National Trust’s Osterley Park blog on the catkins of hazel, which are essential food for emerging bumble bee queens:

 

Bees in fondant

Above, our bees on their fondant – some have died within the packet. Perhaps of coldness or tiredness? Emma noticed that our hive feels worryingly light; I can even heft it one-handed. As we are already feeding fondant there is nothing more we can do now – just wait, wait and hope.

Are your bees finding pollen? What’s flowering where you are?

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Book review and guest post – ‘The Little Book of Honey’ by Elizabeth Gowing

When I first started writing this blog I thought it would pretty much just be me reading it. I never imagined that one day a writer I greatly admire would ask me to review their book! Yet this day has arrived, and the lovely Elizabeth Gowing, author of ‘Travels in Blood and Honey: Becoming a beekeeper in Kosovo‘, has sent me her new book, ‘The Little Book of Honey‘.

Little Book of Honey cover In the first part of the book, Elizabeth gives us her opinions of honeys she’s enjoyed from around the world. It is a fascinating way of tasting your way around different parts of the Earth, taking in the concentrated scents and tastes of the flowers surrounding the bees. Is there any other food that reflects its local area so vividly?

Elizabeth’s lushly descriptive writing brings the labours of the bees to life. She even manages to find a honey “better than chocolate” – carob honey. And viper’s bugloss reveals itself as having a fairy tale taste, “with a butterscotch and ripe banana taste”.

The second half of the book contains honey recipes, some of which come with particular honeys recommended. Apple blossom honey is the best to have with a croissant. French honeysuckle is ideal for making ice lollies and Greek pine honey for Loukoumades, a Greek dessert of fried dough balls soaked in honey syrup.

Naturally I couldn’t review the book properly without first trying out its recipes. Drew and my colleagues have generously helped me out with tasting the resulting cakes. The first recipe I tried was Honey Spice Cake, which fills the house with the sweet smells of cinnamon, ginger, allspice and cloves. This went down well, the honey taste really coming through.  My mum’s family is Welsh, so for my second recipe I chose the Welsh Honey Muffins. I like fruity cakes, so I added in some sultanas soaked in honey flavoured tea, and also made them fairy cake size. Dark and full of flavour, yet very soft and airy in texture, they brought the uplifting scents of cinnamon and ginger amidst the darkness of winter.

Honey muffins

Honey muffins

I have a couple of minor niggles with The Little Book of Honey as a recipe book – size and measurements. It’s small size is sweet but means the book needs weighting down to keep it on the right page whilst baking. And although it’s published in the UK, the measurements are in US cups (though there is a conversion chart at the back). My problem with US cups is that I don’t feel the measurements are as accurate, especially when it comes to measuring butter. Slabs of butter don’t fit properly into a round cup. Anyway, these are tiny complaints – the vivid descriptions and unusual recipes more than make up for them.

I asked Elizabeth if she could explain a little about the background of the book, how she came to write it and went about researching it. This is what she said:

“I’ve always been keen on buying local and when I was travelling around, and particularly when I came from England to live in Kosovo, I discovered that honeys from different landscapes and flowers have a ‘terroir’ just like wine, and you can taste the combination of flowers whose nectar contributed to any particular jar. Just like wine, every batch of honey is unique too and I got excited by tasting honey from coriander flowers, from avocado flowers, pine honey in Greece, ivy honey in Cornwall (strangely like Stilton), beechwood honey from New Zealand etc etc.

When I became a beekeeper I also became interested in what to do with the honey I harvested (other than just spreading it on toast!) and researched some recipes and realised there were lots more things I could do with the honey – smoothies and breads, desserts and snacks. I’ve included in the book recipes for Russian ‘sbiten’ herbal honey drink, Yemeni honey bread, Welsh honey muffins (my favourite recipe in the book), and honey vinaigrette.

Many of the recipes I found came from other beekeepers and in talking to them I also heard about some ways that beekeeping can change lives – a poverty reduction project in Nigeria with Bees Abroad, the inspirational work of the Golden Company with disaffected young people trained as beekeepers in Hackney, or the women in a shelter in Kosovo who have survived trafficking or domestic violence and who now have a business producing wonderful face creams with the propolis from their beehives to support themselves. When you hear stories or savour tastes like these you want to share them, so I had the idea of the Little Book of Honey.

I’d worked with designers, Su Jones and Paddy McEntaggart on the design for my first book, Travels in Blood and Honey; becoming a beekeeper in Kosovo (Signal Books, 2011) so I knew they would transform my words into a beautiful artefact. I think what they’ve produced is really gorgeous – with woodcut-style illustrations on every page it’s a treat to hold and flick through (check out the flickbook effect of the bees around the page numbers!) and the perfect gift for any beekeeper or foodie. People can see some sample pages – and order a copy! – at the website www.thelittlebookofhoney.co.uk. The book costs £6 plus £1.50 P&P.”

Order a giftpack with a signed copy of my Travels in Blood and Honey; becoming a beekeeper in Kosovo, together with a hand-crafted Kosovan honey drizzler. See more at http://100daysofhoney.wordpress.com/2011/11/12/a-new-way-to-eat-honey-my-own-kosovan-handcrafted-drizzler-also-available-to-buy/

Fascinating – thanks so much Elizabeth! I love my Little Book of Honey; it has a place of honour on my bee themed bookshelf.

Related posts/links:

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Beekeepers in the snow

It takes a certain type of lunatic person to be a beekeeper. That type of person is prepared to turn up and talk bees, drink tea and eat cake in all weathers, and that includes snow!

Ealing beekeepers in the snow

From left to right: David, Don, Albert, Stan, John and Cliff.

A great selection of hats going on there.

A small amount of beekeeping was also done. This consisted of hefting hives, checking fondant levels were still ok, and looking at a woodpecker hole that had appeared in the bottom of John’s hive. Worrying, as once a woodpecker has learned the habit of drilling into beehives they are likely to try it again. To a hungry woodpecker, our apiary must be like a piñata waiting to happen. John covered over the hole with parcel tape.

Snowtracks III

Are these the claw prints of the culprit? Or perhaps they belong to a seagull or wood pigeon?

Snow tracks

And could these smaller paw prints be those of a squirrel?

Snowtracks II

Naturalist David Craven posted a great idea on his ‘Why watch wildlife‘ blog – taking photos of the prints we find in the snow, and then tweeting them with the #snowtracks hash tag. It’s not often we get to see what creatures have been visiting! Have you come across any snow tracks for David to identify?

Emma photographing the bees

Emma photographing the bees

We peeked inside our hive and the bees were still busy eating through their fondant. Emma took a close-up photo of them – you can see the result on her latest blog post, ‘Snowmageddon‘.

What’s the weather like in your area, are your bees under snow or enjoying sunshine?

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9th Honey bee pests, diseases and poisoning revision post: chilled brood and neglected drone brood

A 9th revision post for the British Beekeeping Association’s Module 3 Honey bee Pests, Diseases and Poisoning exam, which I’m taking in March. I’m doing the BBKA’s correspondence course, so my tutor, Pam Hunter, sets me papers which she then marks. The second question of Paper 3 is all about chilling, very appropriate as it’s mighty bitter out there just now…

B2. a) discuss the possible causes of chilled brood

  • A lack of bees

Any factor which reduces the number of bees in a colony below the minimum needed to look after the brood will cause chilling; this could include poisoning, loss of a large swarm, a rapidly growing colony during spring or plain old beekeeper cock-ups.  The effects can be seen when large areas of brood fail to develop, whereas disease usually causes a pepperpot effect with some larvae emerging and others failing.

Photo of chilled brood.

Photo of chilled brood. Courtesy The Food and Environment Research Agency (Fera), Crown Copyright

The bottom and sides of brood frames are most likely to contain chilled brood, and it is most likely to be seen in early spring, when the temperature may drop after a warm spell which encouraged the queen to lay well. Dead brood can first appear a yellowy grey colour, before turning dark brown or black, then finally drying out to removable black remains. Nurse bees will abandon the frames on the outside of the brood nest first and try to preserve the larvae in the warmer centre.

  • Beekeeper mishandling

Don’t try to make up nucleuses or hives with an imbalance in the ratio of brood to adult bees; make sure there are plenty of bees to look after the brood. The BBKA has produced Nucleus guidelines which recommend that “Brood and eggs in all stages should occupy at least half the total comb area, with no brood cycle break…There should be a good balance of young and flying bees, and the frames should be well covered.”

A well-meaning beekeeper trying to speed up the colony’s growth by ‘spreading’ or moving about the brood frames by putting extra frames of foundation between brood frames can cause chilling. Do not be tempted to mess with the brood nest!

Long inspections in chilly weather should be avoided. However, bear in mind that young larvae can survive for several hours at well below normal brood nest temperature (35C/95F). Chilled brood is caused by prolonged exposure to cold temperatures and/or starvation due to neglect by the adult and nurse bees in the colony – not beekeeper inspections. But leaving the brood box open for several minutes in cold weather isn’t going to help or endear you to the bees.

To help the bees in keeping the brood warm, try not to give them too much space whilst the colony is building up in spring, particularly if you are filling in the brood box with empty frames of foundation. If you have a small colony in a ten frame brood box but they are only on four frames, the sixth frame down can be replaced with a solid wooden ‘dummy board’, to help keep warmth in. The dummy board can then gradually be moved out as the colony occupies more frames.

b) short periods of chilling can make brood susceptible to another brood disease; name the disease and its causative organism

Chalkbrood is an extremely common brood disease which is often present at low levels in colonies. It is thought to become a noticeable problem when the colony is weak and when levels of carbon dioxide rise above normal, because the bees are failing to maintain the correct conditions in the hive. It is also linked to stresses such as insufficient nurse bees, pollen shortage and the presence of sac brood.

Chalk brood infection

Chalk brood infection. Courtesy The Food and Environment Research Agency (Fera), Crown Copyright.

Chalk brood is caused by a fungus named Ascosphaera apis. This delightful organism begins to germinate when a larva takes in its spores with its food. Inside the gut, the spores start to grow, producing multiple branches of fine cotton-like threads. These break through the gut wall and continue to grow throughout the body of the poor larva, until eventually it becomes “a swollen mass of fluffy white fungus with a small yellow lump where its head used to be“, as Celia Davis puts it in her excellent book ‘The Honey Bee Around & About’ (2007).

The infected larva dries to a hard chalk-like lump called a ‘mummy’, which can be white, grey or black. These will rattle when the comb is shaken. Death occurs after the cells have been sealed, so workers will tear the cappings open to remove the mummies and dispose of them outside the hive. Unfortunately the mummy spores are sticky and will attach to the bees, causing them to infect larvae when they re-enter the hive. Yet another reason to change brood comb regularly – the spores are resistant to heat and have a life of between 3-38 years.

Chalk brood mummies on a hive floor.

Chalk brood mummies on a hive floor. Courtesy The Food and Environment Research Agency (Fera), Crown Copyright.

Like chilled brood, beekeepers are most likely to see chalk brood in the spring when colonies are expanding the brood nest rapidly, but do not yet have a large adult bee population. Even if the resulting chilling is not sufficient to kill the larvae, it seems to encourage the growth of the Ascosphaera fungus.

c) what are the causes of neglected drone brood?

Drones are more dispensable than workers. They eat lots, do no work and generally slob about the hive. Their bulk can be useful in keeping the brood warm, but still they are less than essential for the individual colony to survive.

Drone face

Not particularly useful, but they are handsome. Photo taken by Drew Scott.

So drone brood is usually the first to be neglected and ignored if a colony is under pressure, for instance if little forage is available or long periods of bad weather stop the bees foraging. The sisters may then unceremoniously ditch their brothers to ensure the colony’s survival, often throwing the drone larvae out of the hive.

In the case of a drone-laying queen or laying workers, no new nurse bees are being produced, so the increasingly old workers are unable to keep up with feeding all the drone larvae.

References:

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8th Honey bee pests, diseases and poisoning revision post: collecting laboratory samples

An 8th revision post for the British Beekeeping Association’s Module 3 Honey bee Pests, Diseases and Poisoning exam, which I’m taking in March. I’m doing the BBKA’s correspondence course, so I have a tutor setting me papers which she then marks. I’ve just sent my answers to Paper 2 off to her, now on to Paper 3 and a look at collecting lab samples if you suspect disease or poisoning in your hives…

B1. a) what is the recommended sample size needed for the diagnosis of:

  • i) adult bee diseases

30 bees must be examined in order to complete the diagnosis for acarine, nosema and amoeba.

  • ii) poisoning by toxic chemicals

At least 200 dead bees are required for a full analysis for a poisoning sample, approximately the number that will fit into one of the large ‘Cooks’ matchboxes. The National Bee Unit advises that this needs “to be securely packaged, not in a plastic bag and preferably not flattened“.


Photo from the ‘How can I recycle this‘ website.

If possible, at the same time take two further samples of 200 bees and put these in the freezer in case they are needed. Note the time and day when the bees are discovered and try to locate any witnesses to spraying.

  • iii) why these minimum sizes?

With a sample size of 30 bees, there is a 95% probability that acarine, amoeba and nosema will be detected within this sample, if the infection level is serious enough to require treatment.

Some beekeepers believe there is a strong case to be made for shifting our assessment of nosema infection from “intensity” (as measured by spore counts) to “prevalence” (the percentage of bees actually infected).

Courtesy The Food and Environment Research Agency (Fera), Crown Copyright

Analysing a sample. Courtesy The Food and Environment Research Agency (Fera), Crown Copyright

b) how would you collect these samples?

You want the samples to be fresh but the bees to be old…

Choose bees that are the freshest, submitting newly dead or dying bees if possible.

For some diseases, such as nosema, it is best to collect older foragers. This is because older bees have higher spore counts, since nosema in the gut multiplies and increases during an infected bee’s life. As young bees under 8 days of age won’t have any spores, sampling them could lead to “false negatives.”

Martin-Hernandez (2006) found that foragers returning to the hive can display up to 10-fold higher infection levels than interior bees, and that both interior and exterior bees had almost double the spore count when sampled at 12:30 pm rather than 8:30 am (Scientificbeekeeping.com, the ‘“Nosema Twins” – Part 3, Sampling’ article).

As well as being at the hive entrance, inside the hive foragers are more likely to be at the edges, such as the lid and outside combs. An easy way to gather these bees is to scoop them up from the inside surface of the crown board.

If bees are crawling in front of the hive entrance because they are too weak to fly, these are easy to collect and just as likely to contain nosema spores or viruses as foragers.

Lab training

Microscopy workshop. Courtesy The Food and Environment Research Agency (Fera), Crown Copyright


c) how would you kill a sample of bees for adult bee disease diagnosis at home?

Live bees can be killed by putting them in the freezer overnight.

d) how should the samples for laboratory confirmation be prepared and packed for sending by post?

  • Brood disease samples

The best method is for beekeepers to submit a whole brood comb, with brood of all stages present, in order for an accurate diagnosis to be made.

  • Adult bee disease samples

The best way to send in adult bee samples is in a small sturdy box, well packaged in something such as a padded envelope so the bees will not be squashed. A suitable size for the box is a standard-sized matchbox, which will contain 30 bees. Avoid using glass or plastic boxes, which will degrade the sample by hastening decomposition.

  • Poisoning samples

At least 200 bees are required for a full analysis for a poisoning sample, approximately the number that will fit into one of the large ‘Cooks’ matchboxes. The National Bee Unit advises that this needs “to be securely packaged, not in a plastic bag and preferably not flattened“.

  • General advice

Dry out any wet bees that have been exposed to the elements on newspaper before packing.

Indicate which diseases you want the bees examined for and include a contact phone number in case the lab has any questions about your sample. A template voluntary sample submission form can be downloaded from the National Bee Unit’s Beebase website and printed off. Information which might assist with the diagnosis should be given in a covering letter.

A cheque made payable to the Food and Environment Research Agency should be included; the 2012 price for lab analysis of a sample for Acarine, Nosema and Amoeba is £40.00, but check the National Bee Unit (NBU) prices page for current prices.

‘Bees’ written clearly in large letters on the outside of the parcel will often ensure swift delivery. You don’t have to tell the posties that the bees are dead!

e) to whom could these samples be sent?

Beekeepers in the UK can send samples to the National Bee Unit’s laboratory diagnostic team in York.

FERA NBU Beesuit

A NBU inspector’s bee suit. Courtesy The Food and Environment Research Agency (Fera), Crown Copyright

f) give a list of crops most likely to be sprayed with chemicals harmful to honeybees?

Farmers or gardeners are most likely to spray fruit trees, soft fruit and field crops such as oil seed rape, beans, borage, vegetables, legumes and cereals.

Local authorities may spray weeds such as poppy, ragwort, dandelion and charlock.

Have you ever had to submit a sample for lab analysis? How did you go about it, and what were the results?

References:

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Mysterious search terms used to find a beekeeping blog

Inspired by this amusing post on Steven Schwartzman’s ‘Portraits of Wildflowers’ photography blog, I thought I’d take a look at some of the more unusual search terms people used to find my blog in 2012.

‘woodlice droppings’ – 16 times

Urgh. I have failed to find any photos of woodlice droppings on my blog to keep these people happy. My internet research suggests that woodlice droppings are about 1mm in width and look like black dust particles.

‘what do woodlice look like’ – 4 times

Really? This is a bee blog! Oh well, if you insist:

woodlice photo
From www.uksafari.com.

do woodlice lay eggs – 1 time

Yes. A female woodlouse will keep fertlilised eggs on the underside of her body until they hatch into small, white offspring. That’s enough about woodlice now.

‘squashed bee’ – 12 times

Oh dear. I’m not very optimistic for this bee. Here’s one I’m afraid I accidentally squashed and is long since deceased.

Squashed bee dragging sting

ouch! that bee just stung me! – 2 times

Ouch indeed.

‘what do hives look like on adults’ – 6 times

Wrong type of hives.

‘what causes hives under the armpits’ – 2 times

Not bees.

‘hand feeding carrot’ – 3 times

Like this? Bulls love tasty crunchy carrots!

Bull eating carrots

Like this?

 ‘hunny from bees’ – 3 times

Mmm my favourite hunny.

Hunny

‘british beekeepers beware sign’ – 2 times

A sign to deter British beekeepers or a sign to warn others that British beekeepers may be present?

‘honey dripping on body’ – 2 times

Think they wanted a different kind of blog!

‘average monthly rainfall and temperature ealing’ – 2 times

In 2012, lots and flipping cold.

‘jon and sarah pie and mash wedding’ – 1 time

Huh?

‘bee pic taken by me ;)’ – 1 time

Try looking on your own computer? 😉 I did and here’s one I took earlier.

Honey bee on thistle

Honey bee on thistle

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7th Honey bee pests, diseases and poisoning revision post: Being a bee detective – investigating the death of a colony

A 7th revision post for the British Beekeeping Association’s Module 3 Honey bee Pests, Diseases and Poisoning exam, which I’m taking in March. I’m doing the BBKA’s correspondence course, so I have a tutor setting me papers which she then marks. The last question for paper 2 is a very practical one – trying to work out what has caused a colony to die out.

B5. a colony was fed three gallons of syrup in late October during a period of rather damp weather; next Spring it was slow to build up compared with other colonies in the apiary; there were brown stains on the frames and combs; it recovered enough to produce swarm cells in early July but several of the queen cells had dark coloured walls and the occupants died in the propupal and pupal stages; on sunny days several workers could be found crawling outside the hive or clustered together on grass stalks with what appeared to be bloated abdomens; their wings looked somewhat dislocated and they were unable to fly.

a) give reasons to suggest what diseases might be present in this colony

  • Nosema

The information that the colony was fed three gallons of syrup during damp October weather and had brown stains on the frames and combs suggests the bees were suffering from dysentery.

Dysentery is not a disease but a symptom of problems in the bees’ excretory systems. It happens when excess water accumulates in the rectum, causing runny poop and increased brown splats around the hive’s entrance as the bees struggle to hold in. It is not a sign of nosema, but can help spread nosema spores if nosema is present.

dysentery stains

Defecation on a hive by bees with severe dysentery. From extension.org.

The suspicion that nosema is likely to be affecting the hive comes from the phrase ‘next Spring it was slow to build up’. This is the only observable symptom of nosema. The reason it stalls the progress of colonies is that the germinating nosema spores inside the gut of an infected bee impair the digestion of pollen, shortening the lifespan of the bee. Infection is particularly devastating in younger bees, which will not be able to digest enough pollen to develop their hypopharyngeal glands properly and be able to produce brood food.

  • Black queen cell virus

We may have had a brush with this in one of our colonies this year. Back in June, in my post ‘Long live Queen Neroli, our Jubilee Queen’ I recounted how we were worried at finding a queen cell still capped when the queen should have already emerged:

“We asked John Chapple’s advice. He instructed us to shake the bees off the frame and then gently cut the tip of the queen cell off with a hive tool to see what was inside. The queen revealed was obviously a goner, and had been for some time. “I’m no expert” (hah!) John said, “but that looks like black queen cell virus”. Having looked it up at home, this is a virus associated with the spore disease nosema, which is worrying. You can see her tattered wings and black body below.”

This queen, found in a queen cell from one of our hives in 2012, possibly died from Black queen virus. Copyright Emma Tennant.

This queen, found in a queen cell from one of our hives in 2012, possibly died from Black queen virus. Copyright Emma Tennant.

Black queen cell virus, which turns queen cell walls dark brown-black and the dead prepupa or pupa inside a yellow colour with a tough skin, is associated with nosema, which may be why the queen cells in the hive we’re investigating have succumbed. The virus can only multiply when nosema is present, and in this case several cells have dark coloured walls. The virus probably enters the developing queen through her gut, so as nosema weakens the gut wall this will allow the virus easier entry than the walls of a healthy gut would.

Our dead queen photographed above is black rather than yellow, so John may have been mistaken about the cause of death being Black queen cell virus.

Normally most honey bee viruses exist in a temporarily inactive state and do not cause signs of disease. However, the presence of other parasites or diseases can activate them. Viruses generally are often transmitted through diseases such as acarine, nosema and varroosis, which act as a vector by in some way facilitating the entry of a virus, or activating previously dormant viruses already present in the host. Varroa is thought to be a particularly common vector and viral replication has been shown to be activated by the presence of varroa. As the mites suck the haemolymph of the bees they also act as tiny hypodermic syringes, injecting the viruses directly into their hosts.

Varroa infestation - © Crown copyright 2010 "Courtesy The Food and Environment Research Agency (Fera), Crown Copyright"

Varroa infestation – © Crown copyright 2010 “Courtesy The Food and Environment Research Agency (Fera), Crown Copyright”

In ‘The Honey Bee Around & About’ by Celia F Davis (2009), she says:

“To a honey bee virus a bee hive must be paradise and when an organism such as Varroa destructor appears on the scene, to act as an efficient vector, it must seem like its Birthday and Christmas rolled into one.” (p39)

  • Chronic bee paralysis virus (CBPV)

The beekeeper has noted that “on sunny days several workers could be found crawling outside the hive or clustered together on grass stalks with what appeared to be bloated abdomens; their wings looked somewhat dislocated and they were unable to fly.”

Bloated, distended abdomens (due to a build-up of fluid in the honey stomach) and dislocated wings, causing inability to fly, with crawling on the ground or up plant stems, are symptoms of Chronic bee paralysis virus. There are two main ways the virus can manifest itself in colonies; one causes the problems noted above – abnormal trembling of the body and wings, bees crawling on the ground due to flight inability, bloated abdomens, and dislocated (K letter-shaped, partially spread) wings.

The other form causes hairless, shiny, and black-appearing bees that are attacked and rejected from returning to their colonies by entrance guard bees. The loss of hair is due to their hive mates having nibbled the hairs away. As they are denied entrance to their colony, their flight in front of the hive will be zig-zagging in a similar way to robber bees. These bees will also tremble.

Both forms of symptoms can be seen in bees from the same colony, and may reflect differences among individual bees in inherited susceptibility to the virus (from the Beebase website).

This photo shows three bees with typical CBPV

This photo shows three bees with typical CBPV “shiny appearance”. Courtesy The Food and Environment Research Agency (Fera), Crown Copyright.

During July the worker bee population would be at its peak. It seems that close contact amongst overcrowded bees can break hairs from the cuticle, allowing CBPV to spread from diseased bees to healthy bees via their exposed epidermal cytoplasm. It is likely that any factors that result in decreased foraging activities and crowded conditions in the bee colonies may lead to disease outbreaks of CBPV. It is also associated with varroa, and probably acarine.

b) how could the presence of the pathogens be confirmed?

Nosema

Definite confirmation of nosema requires microscopic examination of the abdomens of older adult bees, which can be collected from the hive entrance. Infection is highly variable in a colony, but foragers tend to contain the higher spore loads. Collecting bees leaving to go on cleansing flights rather than returning will be more effective. Send a sample of 30 bees to a microscopist or the UK National Bee Unit service in a small sturdy box (not plastic, which causes rapid sample degradation).

Lab investigation of a sample will also be needed to positively identify bee viruses.

c) how may the beekeeper have been partially responsible for the condition of the colony?

The information given tells us that the colony was fed three gallons of syrup in late October, during a period of rather damp weather. Sugar syrup feeding generally needs to be finished by early October in Britain, as if syrup is fed too late in the year the bees will have insufficient time to evaporate the excess water, and the syrup will be stored and could ferment, causing digestive problems for the bees when they come to feed on it later. Dysentery is caused by excess water accumulation in the rectum, due to diet or if the bees have been unable to fly for several days due to bad weather.

This late feeding of sugar syrup in unsuitable weather by the beekeeper probably caused the bees to develop dysentery and defecate within the hive, spreading nosema spores already present in the hive more quickly. The younger house bees will attempt to clean up the faeces, causing them to come into contact with the nosema spores in the faeces and become infected.

Widespread nosema infection could have weakened the colony, making it slow to build up in the spring and transmitting black queen cell virus to the queens in their blackened cells. This probably also left the colony more vulnerable to varroa and viruses associated with varroa, such as chronic bee paralysis virus. All this exacerbated by an unfortunate feeding choice in the autumn!

Dead bees in feeder

Sugar syrup in a contact feeder.

d) is there any advantage in uniting this colony to another one; give reasons?

The colony may currently be queenless if it has been unable to produce a healthy queen. If this is the case, uniting it with a queen-right colony will give it a chance of survival. As several workers have been observed unable to fly it is certainly likely to be low in numbers, and may be unable to build up enough stores and new bees to last overwinter without uniting.

There is possibly a genetic susceptibility to Chronic Bee Paralysis Virus, so requeening with a queen from a different strain is often recommended in bad cases. Uniting the afflicted colony to another one would fulfil this.

The disadvantage will be the chance that this colony could infect a healthy one. The beekeeper will have to weigh up whether it is worth the risk.

e) why may it be advantageous to fumigate the combs?

Fumigation would destroy the spores of nosema and several other infectious diseases which might be present on the combs. It is very difficult to treat honey bee viruses, so a good approach is to treat for vectors such as nosema, to try and reduce the exposure of bees to viruses.

Do you agree with this diagnosis? Have you ever come across similar symptoms in your hive?

References:

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A poem to mark the winter solstice

Today’s winter solstice, the shortest day of the year, has become important to me since I started beekeeping. Although today is the darkest day, I know that every day that follows will become that little bit longer and brighter, and bring me closer to being able to spend time with the bees again.

To celebrate the solstice, here is a poem from Sean Borodale’s brilliant ‘Bee Journal‘, published this year.

21ST DECEMBER: SOLSTICE FOR BEES

The sun leans at its annual alignment:
bare day and short,
the sky bleached and chattering with a slight adjustment.

Light’s skeleton puts back its fingers and flicks
the spectral end constant,
and bees just switch the wires of their song opposite;
winding the same sound the other way up.

Like hanks of yarn, this endurance of eavesdrop
grows wound and looped, and invariably it twists
between the wings and the ear.

May you come back
through the hole in the world’s syllable.

Ealing apiary in the snow

Ealing apiary in the snow

January is coming soon, this is what the bees will be up to –

The bees are clustering, huddling round the Queen and surviving on their honey stores. If the weather is mild the cluster may be very loose. On warm days they will be taking ‘cleansing flights’ and fetching water to dilute honey stores.

Following the winter solstice (usually the 21st, sometimes 22nd Dec), the bees recognise the increasing day lengths. If the queen stopped laying completely during December, she will start laying again sometime in January.  To keep the brood warm enough the workers will need to maintain the centre of the brood nest at around 33°C (when no brood is present they can let it drop to about 20°C, which is warm enough to keep the workers active). The temperature will still be cold outside so the bees will be using up a lot of energy generating the required heat, so can get through their honey stores very quickly.

There will be little forage available yet, but the bees will seek out what fresh pollen there is for the new brood. The first snowdrops may be beginning to poke their way out of the ground. Other plants that may be out include crocus, winter flowering honeysuckle and the willow variety Salix aegyptiaca, a musk willow that under the right conditions will flower in January.

Happy Christmas everyone, looking forward to seeing you and the bees in 2013!

Frozen snowdrops

Frozen snowdrops

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A sighting of our bees

Yesterday I went down to the apiary to check on the bees’ fondant. So far they have made a couple of holes and I could see them nibbling away. We will keep an eye on them through these new spy holes during the coming weeks, to make sure they don’t run out.

Ambrosia fondant

It was a very mild winter’s day, around 8°C.  The bees were flying, particularly the yellow bees born from imported New Zealand queens. Our darker bees did not seem to be flying so much; this is probably a good thing as they will be conserving their energy more effectively.

Coffee cake

Coffee & walnut cake decorated with chocolate and hazelnuts.

Something like ten of us turned up, and we managed to eat up all the coffee cake I brought. This one did not rise particularly well, so I made up for that with lots of decorating! The apiary robin put in an appearance and Don rewarded him/her with some mealworms.

Some amusing bee banter was had. John suggested that if our bees are ignoring what our books say, we need to start reading the books to the bees! Don responded that he’ll sit on a chair and arrange his hives around him in a circle, before reading them foraging tips as the sun rises. Best not to read them anything about swarming, in case they get ideas.

The elder beekeepers are planning a winter walk. This is going to start in a pub and then end in a pub, possibly with another pub in the middle, so I will be intrigued to see how far they get.

Are your bees eating up their winter stores quickly? Not long now till the shortest day of the year and then the coming of new shoots with the snowdrops of January.

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